Byron Bay Australia

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Byron Bay Community Issues & News Thursday, June 08, 2006 Byron Bay Surf Diary - Small waves & big egos; want to Pass? 07/06/06 Surfing The Pass each lunchtime this week is certainly providing all the voyuerism of a cafe window seat. With set waves few and struggling to reach shoulder high, there was plently of time to soak up the unbroken sun and observe personalities with Attenborough-like enthusiasm. Yesterday, a young teenage lad stole the show with his adapted 40 inch-long polystyrene 'belly-board'. He managed to ride stand up, composed and grinning, on what must have been the most fun anyone I saw have during my brief time out there. Top-turns and a few slashes; I salute you! Balancing out the child-like abandoment in which this kid was immersed, it was only 15 minutes later that the line-up turned ugly. Catching the struggling shoulder from the outer rocks, a mini-mal rider's exhaustive attempts to catch a set-wave forced a fish rider off the shoulder. The mini-mal rider has been sat way out of position too far out in, what can only be, a vulgar strategy to take priority. The fish had been positioned more keenly on the inside and was up on his feet prior to the mini-mal rider, who was still power-paddling back from Julian Rocks. None the less, the fish rider kicked off and let the wave go. 15 metres in, a new surfer looked over his left shoulder to the minimal rider and began to stroke into the rising wave. I was sat close by and, as the wave looked likely to section, I considered it a valid action. However, the minimal rider continued and so did the shoulder; and so did this new claimant. Without shame, the new rider dropped in. As the minimal rider fell , the new rider looked back with surpise and a big smile, and hastely made off with his stolen prize. The rest of us settled back into the 'wait'. From behind, the audible barks of confrontation began to eminate. I turned to see the minimal rider with eyes glaring and teeth grit fronting up to the criminal surfer. I didn't take it too seriously, and I'm sure that niether did he - until the minimal was aggressively shoved towards his face. What was this? A two-foot sunny day, and The Sopranos? I could hardly hear the soft spoken defense, but that accusations, demands, and threats were clearly heard by all. Too much? Absolutely. But respecting the rider and not 'dropping in' is the first rule of the sport - and it occurs at The Pass with disgusting regularity. 08/06/06 A lucky window saw my first paddle out to be in line for the wave of the day. A mal rider fell, leaving me in the sweet spot for a shoulder high wall which ran for 40 metres. Nice to get a full sweeping roundhouse in on the fish! Lucked-out again on the second wave. With almost no waiting, took it off the rocks for a quick barrell - but the backwash bucked against the shoulder ending the ride shortly after. A dolphin! My heart jumped as the dark shape sped towards me from 6 metres away, its wake brushing my leg as it 'flew' off behind and into the shallows; all heads in the line up twitching to mark it's progress. Two dolphins mingled in and around the line up for remainder of the session, which was a relief as the wait for waves continued without reward. I finally gave in; the clock was ticking and work was calling - but it was The Pass snake who confirmed the end to a pleasant session in eden. Having queued up to be served next, I waited alongside the outer-rocks from my last wave. When it came, someone appeared from their hiding place on the Wategos side and paddled over my back with forked-tongue flicking. A low act, and a bitter aftertaste to an otherwise uncomplainable lunchbreak. posted by Glider @ 3:55 PM